Inlandis, a viewpoint to the white desert


They say that if the Greenlandic ice sheets melted, the level of the oceans would rise! More than 7 meters! That icy mass, also called Sermersuaq, presents in the Greenland polar cap a true icy sea, an infinite white desert, and today we have seen it from a privileged viewpoint ... a viewpoint to the Inlandis

Before, the ascension to the great lake Tasersuatsiaq (go little names) has allowed us to see the first evidence of wildlife but without directly observing it

Life in the Fletanes Glacier Camp

I am still surprised by the contrast of landscapes that the adventure is giving us. We have gone from intense greens and blues, to the white of glaciers or even valleys of desert appearance that remind me a lot of Svalbard we saw my faithful travel companion Paula and I last year (you miss Paulita! I know you're hotter but you would love this)

Today, for the first time, the sun has abandoned us. It has dawned a rare day that has been noticed in the temperature since the first hour and I dare to say that even in the cheerful spirit of the group that has already set to prepare everything to leave. Not even the mosquitoes have dared to look out!

Life in a Glacier Camp (or lunar) It is not very different from the one we had in the Leif Hostel. Considering that we go to bed relatively soon, it can be said that we rest well without getting up early, make a quiet breakfast and start preparing our backpacks for the day. Perhaps the fundamental difference is the comforts of a hot water bath, supplied on many occasions by a creek at the foot of the base or even some daring (right Ida?) A glacier bath. Those that are not missing are Ida, Antonio and Jose Carlos, who make any day unrepeatable

The loneliness of Lake Tasersuatsiaq

Arena, the worst ally for a walk. That is the terrain chosen to begin a strange ascent

Navigation between icebergs, ice hikes, arctic walks and visits to Viking ruins ... every day brings us a surprise


Total tour time: 7 hours (about 3 hours one way)
Difficulty: EASY
Status as necessary: GOOD Although the walk gets along, being fit is not over.
Distance: 15 kilometers
Accumulated drop:500 meters
Maximum level:410 meters
Type of terrain:Tundra and sand
Mosquito level: Elevated as soon as the sun has risen. Recommended use of mosquito net and / or repellent

Among all the itineraries that Polar Lands has I have opted for the "Wonders of Greenland in 8 days" for available time and for type of adventure trip to introduce me in this territory, which combines experiences like these days with soft and affordable trekking where the physical condition does not require more than being an active person and lover of the outdoors (perhaps except for the Thousand Flowers Glacier Valley, something more demanding) and that combines this with cultural activities. Impossible to order more! This is our route today ...

All this becomes palpable from the first moment we leave the deserted "lunatic" valley where our camp is and we reach the Green Tundra Leafy Lake Road

I used the word "strange" before. We have left the fjord level to find an elevated lake? effectivelyTasersuatsiaq is an accumulation of water formed from the glacier thaw that has been trapped between a kind of sediment dam. Strange? Curious?

But the freezing cold of the first hours of a sad morning was going to take little to change. A small stop of just 10 minutes leads to the passage of the sun and with it the first mosquitoes. Why won't there be more plants like this? Did you know that Greenland has "carnivorous" flowers eat mosquitoes?

"Armed mosquito nets" !! All ready!! Heading to our goal of the day

We leave aside the imposing lake Tasersuatsiaq and continue our ascent to a mountain that takes us up to 400 meters of altitude, leaving beautiful places that mix intense blues with remains of the perennial glacier ice last winter.

Inlandis, a viewpoint to the white desert

While the pace is still perfect for everyone, rocks and areas where vegetation makes it difficult to follow a path, are obstacles that slow down our progress.

We soon become aware of the place we are entering from the moment the glacial languages ​​that we see from the camp appear.

We are in an area of ​​Caribús (do you remember the Svalbard Dwarf Reindeer what did we see last year?) and although these days it is very hot we can observe remains of its passage through this area probably in spring.

And then we arrived! The infinite ice, the second polar ice cap after Antarctica, the white desert of Greenland ... the Inlandis.

We had reached a privileged viewpoint where the horizon only leaves an infinite white

I must admit that although we have reached places as close to heaven as hell, the famous Nyiragongo volcano in R.D. CongoAt these barely 400 meters high I have come to feel how the gods who created this unique throne in nature should do it, a viewpoint where you can contemplate the rugged and inhospitable but at the same time beautiful and majestic natural heritage for humanity

If one day they ask me what it has been the best picnic of my life (rare issue), I will definitely think about Greenland. Which one to stay with? Today on that balcony of nature. Some eat, others sleep, think or breathe fresh air ...

2,500 km in which to enter and not find another color beyond white. What merit has projects like Ramón Larramendi's wind sled! (and that madness at the same time)

Although like any good outdoor viewpoint (and at a certain height), the icy wind did not allow to stay forever

A descent "between cottons" (Arctic)

Also, if I had to choose a return in one of our trekkings, without a doubt that would be today, on the opposite side to which we have climbed and seeing now the lake in all its splendor.

In fact, we have even taken the opportunity to cool down a little in those so warm waters from the winter glacier ice (come on, the feet were twisted until we couldn't)

Definitely the Caribou are going to have to wait. The reason that has convinced us the most is that with these temperatures we enjoy these days they have gone to cooler interior areas instead of drinking in the lake as on other occasions. What are we going to do, we will settle for following their tracks ...

But if the viewpoint has been the best moment of the day, the sun has made the streams that go to the beach of our camp leave now beautiful snapshots as the afternoon falls

Even in that Fluffy and fluffy "green carpet" that allows you to see Arctic cotton in all its glory

Nor here we see trees or large plants. From mid-November to the end of January the sun is scarce in these latitudes although we can attest that in the summer months it is intense.

The Fletanes Glacier Camp awaits us one more night, today with one more member as a group of Belgians have just returned from being on the ice for several days

THE SERIES "TRAVEL TO GREENLAND" NOW IN YOUTUBEA trip like this deserved the best AUDIOVISUAL EXPERIENCE in ourYoutube channel. You can see here the COMPLETE SERIES and then the chapter of this day without leaving the article you are reading (do you want to feel what we feel?)…

We will have to "fight" dinner (just kidding, with similar pasta hunt, repeated up to 4 times) and some beers (5 EUR)

They say that the Inuit, in the days of blue sky, are able to see the north coast of infinite ice with their eyes. I will not be the one who doubts it, but mine only gives to observe the nunataks or rock islands emerging that we saw from the plane when we landed several days ago. Tomorrow we may see more!

Isaac, from Qaleraliq (Greenland)