Travels

What to visit in Tel Aviv

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Nisan 11 of 5773.Have we slept so much on the plane that 3,760 years have passed? !! Paula, Paula !! !! Wake up! They have already turned on the cabin lights and breakfast is coming. Mmm, what is it that we see through the window of the plane in the distance? We have left Cyprus (other "poor" who have succumbed to ridiculous European policies) and we see the modern city of Tel Aviv

But ... of 5773? We are in the cradle of Judaism, where we will see a culture very different from what we saw a few months ago in Istanbul in fulltemple to Islam as the Blue Mosque, although there is a common point between Judaism, Christianity and Islamism and that is that the three are Abrahamic religions, but while the last two have found their “messiah or prophet” in Christ (year 0) and Muhammad (S.VI), the Jews begin their calendar with the Genesis of the world dated October 7, 3,761 BC. (1 of Tishrei of year 1) because they are still waiting for a succession of events that are coming. Well, that ... year 5,773.

At this time of the year it dawns around 5.45 and dusk around 18.00, so we have a good schedule to take advantage. We landed at night at 5.05, but the heaviness of long lines of controls It makes us lose almost 1 hour. Of course, it seems that we have been lucky, we have just been asked about the route we were going to do. Those who went before us have taken them (and others a little earlier too). Will it be random?


 

After punctually picking up the suitcase (he could, surely he turned more than ever in his life) and change 100 EUR just in case (at 4.64 ILS the EUR) on first inconvenience we have had with the car rental. Look that we did it 2 months in advance and making it very clear by active and passive (in special requests) that we wanted manual transmission. Well there has been no way.

CLARIFICATION2 MONTHS OF ANTELATION. NO MORE NO LESS. The provider here (Thirfty) did not have ONE SINGLE CAR transmission manual, but the serious thing is no longer that. In those 2 months, they have not bothered to read the "APPLICATIONS" (why do they put them?). Moreover, we immediately call the Rentalcars emergency service (with whom we rent the car) ...UPDATE UPDATE:In the end everything has cleared up and there was a problem with Thirfty. Rentalcars has returned 10 EUR for the costs of the call and has apologized. In general, and after the good experience of the final trip, we do not complain

With our "small automatic" (which remedy) and adapting a little to the circulation (it does not seem difficult to drive in Israel with a GPS) in less than 25 km (about 30 minutes) we were in the vicinity of where we would stay today in Tel Aviv , the Yemeni Neighborhood, although it was almost 8 in the morning.

In principle we thought it would be impossible to stay so soon, but the reception with which we have been entertained by the staff of Eden Hotel TLV, having a room ready after a long trip, and the cool place hidden in the streets of this particular neighborhood, make our face change immediately.


 

In the heart of the city: the Yemeni neighborhood and the Carmel market

It is first thing in the morning and it is 28ºC. It seems that it will be a hot day. We cool down a little, change clothes and receive the narrow alleys, the collapsed areas and the dilapidated houses of the Yemeni neighborhood Where we stayed However, it is considered one of the most beautiful areas of the city for the atmosphere that is breathed. The car will be in a parking lot here all day (we don't know what it says, but hey, there's nowhere to pay, hehe).


 

We have already been told by a girl who spoke Spanish at the Eden Hotel, we are in the heart of the city, and we move towards moving we will reach a privileged point in Tel Aviv.


And so it is, because almost unintentionally we reach the Carmel Market one of the typical markets of the city, especially on Friday.


And today is Friday. It is now that we begin to understand why Friday is a great day to visit Tel Aviv. On Tuesdays and Fridays this area of ​​the city becomes the true crowd and the market brings out its splendor. Yes, there is everything here! Suddenly you find a fish shop, but the next position sells toys, and the next desserts, and the next chillies, and the next cheese ...


 

... and the next hookahs, and the next treats, and the next olives for all tastes ... and we could go on like this for hours


 

But Paula who really liked it is one who sells pastries by weight (5 ILS), with all kinds of croisants, palm trees, brioches, donuts, Neapolitans ... !! sweet tooth !!


We finish the street and take the opportunity to change, now if some more money (at 4.68 EUR), and we go down to the promenade that we will continue because in the distance we see our next destination.


Jaffa, the old port city.

At this time of the morning Tel Aviv is no longer a sleeping city, people are on the beach, or run along the promenade, or play with children in the green parks equipped for it. Others have breakfast, which reminds us that these buns from the Carmel Market have not been enough and we have a walk through the old Jaffa to the south of the city, so we stopped to stick a feast (-124 ILS- we have not eaten well for almost 24 hours) and continue between curious walls.


 

Jaffa has archaeological evidence that shows that it was inhabited by 7,500 BC. C and whose Old Testament places its foundation by Japheth, son of Noah (that of the flood). Subsequently, King David and his son Solomon conquered Jaffa and used their natural harbor as well. Like the Babylonians, Persians, Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans, where would we stay yesterday.


 

The truth is that the modern part, the one that continues the walk, has pleasantly surprised us, because there are beautiful galleries, contemporary bars and a port that is seen to have had better moments in the past.


This has also happened to Napoleón Bonaparte, although we doubt that he could enjoy any of the taperías that today remind us of any Spanish coastal city, or that seems an improvised market in the lower part of the port (although it seems to be usual) next to Nagala 'at Center, one of the most exquisite shopping centers (where there is even theater, and the Israelis are very fond of theaters, dances, philharmonic orchestra, etc ...)


 

But what struck us most about getting here was to start the walk through the historic center of Jaffa, now restored, and that begins in a small "passage"


 

Getting lost in its streets, at these lonely hours, is getting lost in a conglomerate of courtyards, galleries with privileged shops, mosques and churches.


 

Jaffa is also known for being the port where Jonas sailed in his attempt to flee after the Lord's call, until a gigantic fish caught him within which he spent three days. Legends and more beautiful alleys


Thus we arrived at Jaffa where it is said that Pedro made Tabita rise from the dead, staying at the house of Simon the Tanner, which is where the Visitor Center is today. It was on the roof of this house where Peter had a vision.


 

Perhaps because of the above, the beautiful St. Peter's Church It is the most distinguished building in ancient Jaffa, although the views from the top of the hill in Kikar Kedumin or even below can be honorable as well.


 

The descent along the North side does not leave us indifferent, passing next to the Mosque of El Mamudiya and going to hit with him Flea Market (Jaffa flea Market) and its tumultuous space, where we can also see the clock tower of 1906


 

The Muslim influence of this area gives a particular color very different from other neighborhoods, finding all kinds of really special hookahs and corners (and even some curious character and some shop taken from the Gremlims movie, where they buy Gismo)


 

Leaving across the street Derech Jaffa through which we walk one of the trendy neighborhoods of the Florentin moment, we gradually approach Neve Tzedek, another point on our route.

Neve Tzedek, an oasis of modernity.

We read that we are in one of those transgressive neighborhoods, once inhabited by several Israeli intellectuals that in recent years has been transformed into an oasis of modernity brimming with buildings of great architectural value (that have washed their faces) and of little shops, cafes and galleries of art worthy of appearing on the agenda of every trend hunter that prides itself, and the truth is that…! Paula had to be taken out by holding her tight !! What a cool place!


 

But it is in a particular street where all these stores are crowded, the rest of the neighborhood being a sea of ​​absolute tranquility very different from the rest of Tel Aviv seen so far. The name of that street is Shalom Sabazi Street.


 

We would like to point out that perhaps we have arrived in this neighborhood because in one of those shops a traveling companion found the suitcases that give image to her blog, and although we do not have the pleasure of knowing each other, if we have to recognize that we loved her article that we dazzled and the love with which he was born so from here we recommend that you visit laviajeraempedernida.com


 

On this pleasant walk, we continue north to Nahalat Binyamin Street where we passed in the early hours and were riding a kind of stands and now shows a really particular craft market.

The artisan market and "opening up" with the Sabich

It is now that we begin to understand even more why Friday is a great day to visit Tel Aviv. It is today when this area of ​​the city becomes a world of artists who display art, crafts and all kinds of hookahs that make Paula put her eyes wide (what will she be thinking? more potricoles? Yes, for 20 ILS)


 

Nahalat Binyamin Street, which must be accessed through controls at all points where they check your backpacks, is one of the most successful streets of the new Tel Aviv. We are in a pedestrian street full of life, shops, cafes or restaurants, where many people live their lives.


 

But this area is also distinguished by having some of Israel's most famous places to Try the most typical food here, the Sabich. Let's go there?


We have found the Sabich Tchernichovsky, perhaps the most famous, and this is where we will try this particular "Jewish kebap". It is a kind of pita bread stuffed with fried eggplant, lettuce, hard boiled egg, cheese sauce and other types of spicy ingredients.


 

Its consumption comes from a Jewish tradition, but anyway, after the feast that we have stuck at breakfast it will be great to kill the bug and approach the Eden Hotel here next door also with a couple of lemonades (46 ILS two Sabich and two lemonades).


 

Start cooling something, so we take some clothes and take the opportunity to see the common rooms of the guest house. The truth is that it is a pimp, being able to climb to the roof and enjoy the evening sitting there. In summer it must be a luxury.


 

We do not waste too much time and follow our improvised route to the east of the city.

Shenkin Street, Rothschild Boulevard and end of party.

We had read somewhere that Tel Aviv is also called the white city. In all that we have been doing during the day, we have not been able to find out why. For us the white city is still Arequipa that we visited in the trip to Peru in 2010, for example. However, entering Shenkin Street, we began to suspect why.

Shenkin street It is the gay street par excellence of Tel Aviv and all Israel and here we see as many white buildings of the more than 4,000 "Bauhaus" style built throughout the city by German Jewish architects since the thirties. Such is the case that UNESCO proclaimed Tel Aviv as a World Heritage Site. Its prolongation,Rothschild Boulevard, is possibly one of the most beautiful boulevards in the city


 

But it is perhaps this area of ​​the city that discovers us the most "lame" Tel Aviv, that of the abandoned neighborhoods, or the one who once had more followers. It shows, for example, in the area of Dizengoff Center, today a shadow of what should have been. Of course nothing has to do with what we have seen on our walk

But already arriving at the beach, our eyes say enough. We have barely slept "something" on the plane and sleep and tiredness seizes us And tomorrow we want to get up early. An attempt at coffee (25 ILS) does not relieve us at this time.


 

The warm Mediterranean that bathes the Israeli city has beaches for everyone, which although we have not seen them during the day, surely today they have been crowded like the rest of the city at this time. And today we have recorded that Tel Aviv on Friday is a lively city with a relaxed and relaxed atmosphere, which gives us the feeling that it will be very different from the rest that we are going to find (and that we want) on this trip.


 

A) Yes we return for one of the longest promenades for those of us who have walked to retire because tomorrow we continue our walk towards the North. And that Tel Aviv can still offer more in the form of museums, philharmonic orchestra or other cultural institutions (dance, theater ...) but the contrast between the old Jaffa, the great skyscrapers, the demolished houses and the transformed city we believe has reached us . !!See you tomorrow everyone!! Family, we are great.


Isaac and Paula, from Tel Aviv (Israel)

EXPENSES DAY: 204 ILS (approx 43.59 EUR) and GIFTS: 20 ILS (approx 4.27 EUR)

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