The Peruvian Amazon Rainforest


We thought tonight, while listening to the ten sounds that the night forest held for us, how strong is the synergy in this part of the planet among all the fauna and flora that coexists. There are trees that cannot live without some ants that protect it, monkeys that cannot live without others that remove the leaves or macaws that would not have nests if it were not for the woodpeckers and their holes at the top of the treetops Dry, while looking for your food.

We got up very early, at 5:30, because today we are going to get up with the rest of the jungle. A thick haze, taken from the best Carpenter movies, hides the Lake at this time. Even so we get into it with Paulina, who has discovered herself as a great biologist and sees things where nobody sees them, and less us. Today the 70-300 VR objective is going to sparkle to reach the farthest "bugs" ...

Entering at this time in the Lake is something that cannot be paid even with all the Inca gold in the world. There we can observe resting on the branches of the tallest trees, the Gallinazos what we saw yesterday ...

... and the eyes of Black caiman, always on the prowl, to sneak into the water when we hear the oars of our boat arrive

The possibly most curious bird of this habitat is the Hoatzin, an archaic-looking bird that looks like taken from Prehistory. It is a kind of chicken with a beautiful crest and with a clueless face.

We continue moving along the shore of the lake, while the mist begins to rise with the first rays of sun. We dazzle, in the distance, a kind of crane with the long beak called Tabby Heron.

The life of the lake is rich especially in birds, among them we see other curious beings, such as the one with "red legs" called Carrilero, a woodpecker called Lineado or the little ones Long-nosed bats.

One of the prettiest birds is the White-bellied Parrot, of multiple colors, perched on the highest branches

Almost by chance, Paulina sees in the distance a Titi, a little monkey of the multiple species of monkeys that inhabit this jungle. Below, while Titi searches for his breakfast, we observe a Ibis, taking its ration of placton with that particular curved peak "made to measure"

!!! Capuccino monkeys !!! They are heard from afar but we barely get to see them. Binoculars help us locate them. They approach the lake in search of food. !! They are there !! They are a complete pack

It's almost 7:30 and the day life of Sandoval Lake is already in full swing. It's time to return to the Lodge to have our deserved breakfast

Paulina tells us that there is an animal that is considered the protector of the Lakes and Sandoval has at least one. Are the Anacondas, which reaches them up to 13 meters. It is said that they only appear when the ecosystem begins to fail.

3 years ago, it was lived the only experience with an Anaconda That is remembered. It was the attack on one of the members of the local family that inhabits these waters, the only one allowed next to the Lodge, prior to the denomination of Natural Reserve of the area. It is said that there was a fire at that time on the outskirts of the Lake that caused many "strange" species to enter it and there was a rearrangement of the ecosystem. The anaconda seems to have attacked the dog that was in the boat, but when trying to defend it, its owner was injured in the arm. The bite was such that after the help of the people of the Lodge, it had to be moved to the outskirts, but ... the Anaconda waited, as if she had a goal to fulfill. In the end they shot her in a subsequent attack.

We have quiet breakfast and return to "our viewpoint". The sun already reaches high levels and illuminates all the points of this natural place

Paulina awaits us. It's 10'00 and we will go deep into the jungle. He carries a kind of machete in his hand. Fear gives us. Before leaving we explain all the plants and flora of the Lodge's garden, which includes a concentration of the most common Tambopata Nature Reserve. We are not going to talk about these or we would never end, but we see more than thirty, from the most curious "mimosa" that closes the leaves when touched to the tasty Yucca. We can also see another type of Woodpecker smaller, yellow, and the work of the wasps making their nests in the surrounding trees.

Seeing a medicinal plant, abruptly, in a nearby tree, from one of the nests we saw last night, some legs appear ... !!! IT'S A TARANTULA! in broad daylight. Really repulsive. It's really scary to see her so close.

We enter the undergrowth and observe a Really big red-tailed squirrel. Almost barely gives us time to photograph it. Is beautiful

The most exciting moment comes ... !!! A FRAIL MONKEY CLOTHING !!! Above our heads There are more than 50 or 60 copies, and they are going to the shores of the Lake in search of food. !!! What a show !! Be curiosities that jump from branch to branch accompanied by a family of capuccino monkeys that we saw in the early hours, looking for among the leaves that they remove, food for their young (with care that their fiercest predator does not see them, the eagles).

Once again, we felt, as in a National Geographic documentary, and for the first time, exceeded the best expectations. We even dare to talk about what we will look for in future trips (Joseba, watch the mail)…

Now we can observe a particular Frog, which blends with the leaves and trees of the environment to go unnoticed

Between the most incredible trees, We can see the Ceiba, the tallest, in which it is said that a ghost called Chullanchaqui ("one leg only") lives who dances around him on full moon nights. It also comes out when the tree is endangered. Another very particular is the "Nuez de Brásil", the second highest, which gives giant "chestnuts", which once opened has up to 23 smaller pieces very similar to the chestnuts we know.

We can even see "walking" trees, which advance up to 20 cm per year Looking for the light of the sol. And it is that the jungle is as we imagined it, with a multitude of fruits and vegetation, but it is a very cruel habitat where even the vegetation itself seeks its way looking for light among the tall trees, achieving different solutions according to the plant, from reflections on the ground to impossible forms. We see garlic-garlic trees, Ginger, Tongarana, Cataguay, "follow me-follow me", ... (the names, surely not similar, but it is the best we have taken)

!! Go !! A "cicada house". In this part it is full. There the cicadas live up to 1 meter deep, absorbing the sage of the tree. We can also see lsecond largest butterfly in the world.

The vegetation is increasingly lush. We are moving quite far from the Lodge although it seems that Paulina knows the area quite well. We ask him if it is possible to see some type of feline (puma, trigillo, ocelot or jaguar) and he tells us that we usually see them so close to the Lake. It has rarely been seen. What we do see is the !! LARGEST ANT OF THE WORLD !! that normally makes his life alone. Its sting can lead to the death of a child.

It's time to out of the jungle to eat something

The food at the lodge It is excellent, a joy. All of the most natural. If yesterday we were eating a kind of rice wrapped in a leaf of the place as we went down the Madre de Dios River, last night we ate catfish, accompanied by a soup and copoazu juice. Today it touches a meat (which we hope is not monkey but just in case, we do not ask), quinoa and carambota juice.

Until 16:30 we don't go out again, so while the sun hits the lake hard, we have taken refuge in the shadow of the lodge to hear the sounds of the jungle, take a little nap and write these lines of our story. As we try to explain what we feel here, we see that it is not easy to convey the emotion of being surrounded by all these incredible beings that we photographed far from looking like a documentary description. Living here, even for two days, is something really different from the rest of the trip and what we have previously experienced in our lives. It's unique!

!! Time to board !! La Selva does not stop ... neither do we ... It is getting dark and the Lake begins to silence little by little as the sun goes down the horizon.

Now there are no birds "having breakfast" or monkeys riding "brawl", but those who have gone out to "dinner" are the River Wolves or Giant Otters We saw yesterday. Although Paulina insists that they are difficult to see, it has been two days since we have been able to observe them. There they are, fighting for a bite of fish that just caught one of them and keeps in the mouth

They seem to rehearse a waltz, the whole group, the 6, dive, hunt and get out of the water at the same time. It is a beautiful spectacle that Lake Sandoval offers us again.

But no less precious is the multitude of colors that leaves us the sunset. It is one of the prettiest we have seen. Yellow, pink, purple and reddish tones turn the sky over us. Nature is silenced around us, rarely interrupted by some "clueless" bird or the croaking of the gladiator frog, with strong lungs.

We take out our flashlights and focus on the shore of the Lake. There are dozens of red eyes that reflect our own light. Are Black alligators And this is the way to see them. The lake is full of them and although during the day we have barely seen them now they remain more attentive than ever.

It's time to have dinner and have the "penultimate" nice talk with Paulina. Today he touches chicken with a rare mixture of condiments, a rare banana soup and a passion fruit juice, the passion fruit. Previously, we have seen a video about the life of a similar ecosystem in Brazil.

The bed awaits us. It has been another exciting day in our adventure through Peru. Life in the Peruvian Amazon Rainforest He will still be without us, but, if only for a couple of days, we take a little bit of it for us. Especially the sound that accompanies us with the entire Lodge in silence while we write these last lines. We would not know how to describe it. It's the sound of the jungle, just ... VERY SPECIAL

Isaac and Paula from Lake Sandoval (Peru)